”I don’t know what happened, it’s the same box I always get.”
Surprisingly enough I get a lot of clients that look at me puzzled when I say that box color is bad for their hair. I’ve always known this to be common knowledge and a few of those reasons you can guess without any background in haircolor. I always hear things like “Doesn’t all color make your hair dry?” or, “The box doesn’t” say anything about that!”.
As a certified haircolorist it’s difficult when a client questions my suggestions or training, they are seeking me for haircolor help for a reason. Perhaps it’s due to the fact that the client has failed at creating something to please themselves. You probably don’t trust your friends with your color by now and you know you’ve made one too many mistakes. Now it’s time to trust a professional. I did go through 7 grueling months of intense studying and practicing to further my understanding of color from chemistry to psychology. We are color perfectionists and consider box color to be the lowest of the low that you can go with coloring your hair. So trust me or any other colorist that you admire, relax, and wait for the final result!
I have quite a few clients who come see me monthly and are willing to pay top dollar for a haircut but won’t pay for professional haircolor. You’re too scared to let an entry-level stylist give you a haircut but you trust yourself (a non-professional) to make decisions on chemically altering your hair? If you’re one of those people consider this….pay $40 for a great haircut then fry it off with an $8 box of color.
I’ll let you in on a little secret….it doesn’t matter how great your haircut is if your ends are over-processed. I know haircolor forwards and backwards so I’m going to tell you the reasons why you should get it done at the salon.
1. One size does not fit all.
I consider box color to be “one size fits all”. The idea of something like this is not perceivable in the world of professional haircolor and it cannot be relied upon. In order to achieve the color you want a stylist considers several factors and customizes your developer with different hues to make the perfect shade. Box color is made so that it can potentially alter a wide range of hair types & shades with no guarantee. I may choose to use a 3% developer on one person and 9% on another with the same color but the outcome will be immensely different. Most box colors use 12% or higher to assure that it will at least do something to any hair type and that’s just getting dangerous!
As a woman do you believe in one size fits all pants? I certainly don’t! They might fit the size 6 figure but they won’t fit the size 14(and if they do you’re going to have a camel toe and a muffin top coming hot!). I know this that’s why I don’t buy one size pants and the same applies for box color. That beautiful buttery blonde shade might look great on your sister but it’ll turn out orange on you. In this situation think of the camel toe you don’t want in the same sense as a bad color with fried ends. Do you really want to walk around looking like that?
2. Haircolor must be customized for each person.
We are all unique in many ways and that applies to hair as well. I mentioned that professional stylists must consider several factors in order to give you a proper color service. For those who don’t realize the thought process it takes to come up with your formula I’m going to give a brief overview.
Here are the main factors we consider when customizing your color service:
- Natural level & underlying pigment
- Skin Tone
- Level of Porosity
- Previous artificial pigments
- Percentage of gray(if any)
3. Do you know what demi, semi, & permanent really means?
In the world of box color there isn’t a whole lot of difference between demi, semi, and permanent haircolor. Yes, the box may claim that it washes out in a month…. but will it? In most cases it doesn’t. This goes back to customization again, even with colors that wash out there has to be a process to consider what level and shade will turn out the way you want it to.
It’s important to remember that no color really washes out completely. In the salon there is a huge difference between the three types and each process has its own factors. There is no way that a box can figure out all of those things for you. There is ONE exception when it comes to finding a haircolor that washes out. That would be temporary color, it is in a completely different category whether you are talking about box or professional color. Temporary colors only stain the outside of the hair strand and should last 1 to 2 weeks at most. There can still be a hinkering of tint left depending on how light your hair is.
4. There is nothing like professional application.
When i hear the word “bottle” in reference to haircolor it makes me cringe. Bottles are only good for one thing- toners, which is also something that should not be attempted at home. There is no such thing as a good bottle application of color. In order to keep your hair healthy and avoid banding of color it must be applied precisely from the regrowth to the demarcation line.
Do you think you can do this in a poorly lit bathroom leaning over your sink using a bottle? Even if you’re using a brush you can’t see what we can see. If the color overlaps you will create banding(darker spots) and that’s not pretty.
You’re also getting into damaging your hair on a whole new level. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve done a haircut on a box blonde and it’s white, yellow, orange, basically splotchy all over. Just because you got your blonde hair doesn’t mean you’re looking good. Here comes Ms. Cheap-and-Unattractive!
5. Your hair WILL feel like straw.
I’m convinced that the reason why some of my clients and other box color users out there accept the straw-like hair texture is because they just think that’s what’s supposed to happen. This is a huge misconception resulting from an uneducated public when it comes to haircolor. Companies that put box color on the market are clever advertisers and they’re doing a great job brainwashing everyone. When you come to the other side and experience professional color your hair will feel better than it ever has. It is possible to be a platinum blonde with shiny, healthy hair, but probably not with a box.
The reason why your hair feels like straw is because it is traveling further and further down the porosity scale. This means that the damage level is rising and you’re getting close to losing some hair. Most people get a box and put it all over. I’m not sure but I don’t think box colors include directions on applying to the demarcation line and refreshing ends only when needed. This is why that beautiful rich chocolate brown that you once achieved is looking black on the ends. Also resulting in more and more straw-like texture, difficulty styling, and frizzing out of control. I can’t even begin to tell you the difference between doing a blow out on hair that I colored versus box colored hair. It’s excruciating, difficult, and hair is breaking off every 2 seconds!
6. The outcome of box color is usually an unwanted new haircut.
Do you like your hairstyle? Whether it’s long or short it doesn’t really matter because I’ve seen these disasters with all lengths. Damage is almost certain with repetitive use of box color. Generally the ends to the mid-shaft are affected, and in some extreme cases it can be worse. We’ve all seen those dry, frizzy ends on someones hair… and there isn’t much a flat iron can do for that. There comes a point where if you want your hair to look good again cutting a few inches off is the only option. If you’re not ready to do a total 180 with your hair you may want to think before you pick up the box!
I have a wonderful client that I’ve been working with almost 2 years now. She would like to get professional color but she either doesn’t have time or can’t readily afford it considering the rapid growth and gray that shows. I understand that so I feel for her and we’re working to get her hair healthier. We initially had to cut a lot off, and we do regular deep conditioning treatments. With my instruction she is doing much better, but she went through a year of suffering with hair hassles. She didn’t understand why this happened, she followed the directions, but boxes do not explain the danger of porosity. Porosity has a different meaning when it comes to haircolor so I’ll give you a short explanation and you’ll soon understand why it matters.
If you’re not sure if you’re hair is damaged beyond repair take my quiz- How Damaged Is My Hair?, to find out more about your hair’s porosity!
7. Cap highlights are an accident waiting to happen!
Most of you have probably heard of “polka dots” or “bleed lines”, and you may have experienced them yourself. This is not a pretty picture and also not easily reversible at home. I don’t believe in cap highlighting at home or in the salon. Sorry if I’m offending any “professional” haircolorists out there but there is simply nothing professional about pulling hair through holes with what looks like a latch hook and slapping bleach on it. The 80′s were great but it’s time to move on and leave the cap behind.
Here’s an interesting tidbit about cosmetology education in the 2000′s: Cap highlights are not even spoken of to students in most cosmetology schools. Some schools may be a little outdated and still carry and teach the cap method but the more elite institutions don’t even consider it.
After we were taught how to foil and finished our basic color knowledge course I asked about the cap out of curiosity. My learning leader just looked at me and said, “No honey….no…we don’t do that anymore.”
There are plenty of reasons why you shouldn’t use cap highlights at home or in the salon. I hope this technique slowly slips out of all stylists and clients vocabulary!
8. You’re not going to look like the celebrities in the commercials.
I know what your thinking, her hair looks great! But do you think that Gwen Stefani really uses box color? NO! She pays ungodly amounts of money to a top stylist for her haircolor. Same with Eva Longoria and Beyoncé, two other huge haircolor endorsers. They are getting paid thousands to endorse at home haircolor for big companies.
Sure, you want to have hair like hers, but she is paying well over the hundreds for her haircolor and you are paying $8. Yea, not going to happen. If you want great haircolor mimicking celebrity hair icons then find a certified colorist and make an appointment!
If you’re interested in learning about why certified colorists have more satisfied clients or would like to get certified read my article on Becoming an Expert in Cosmetology & Beauty. Even if you’re not in the beauty industry you will love the idea behind why I am so motivated when I do what I love!
9. It may be affordable now…but not for long.
So you say that you cannot afford professional color. Well, if you can’t pay the $50 for a professional then should you really be spending $10 on a box? Probably not if your situation is that tight. Just because you can’t afford the more expensive option doesn’t mean you can afford the lesser.
Let’s say you get a box color and the outcome is not what you expected, which is usually the case. In fact, it’s even worse than you expected and you have a big interview or party coming up. You may decide to grab another box and fix the problem yourself. That’s an even worse idea. Now, you’re over-processed and your only option is to crawl in a salon begging for a miracle. This would be true even if you didn’t attempt at fixing it yourself. Most salons charge $100 per hour for corrective color services and only a few stylists generally offer that service. Now you’re hoping to get someone that knows what they are doing and probably paying $200-$300 for the fix. That $8 box ended up costing a lot more than you expected!
You don’t have to go to a top salon, but find a credible stylist and explain your concerns. Your stylist will work with you to come up with something affordable. I have a client with gray that only comes in every 3 months for color. I created a solution that doesn’t show a huge demarcation line when it grows in and it averages out to about $16 per month. Doesn’t sound so bad does it? And if you have solid gray there are products out there like colored mousses, dry shampoos, and hair markers that can stretch you to your next color service.
10. If you decide to switch it’s not going to be easy.
If you’ve ever gone to a salon for professional color after coloring your own hair for any amount of time…you know what I’m talking about. You probably get a look that says “Do you think I have a magic wand?”. Because box color is so different from professional color we cannot accurately predict what may happen when we use our color on top of box color. It’s going to be a process and you have to be patient.
The most common outcome is an odd shade of green shining through, or even purple. I’ve had clients come in with similar situations a few times and it’s not an easy fix. You will end up spending more money in the beginning that you may expect. Putting color on top of color DOES NOT wipe the slate clean. You may have months or years of various pigments hiding in there and who knows which ones will pop out!
I know I said ten reasons but there is one more…….
11. Box “formulas” may change but professional formulas don’t.
Have you ever been to a Big Lots or Ollie’s and there it is on the shelf….discounted box color. You get excited! Not only are you going cheap, now you’re getting it even cheaper. This is not a good thing. Just like everything else at discount stores, it’s there because it is old. That doesn’t mean that some products in large chains aren’t expired and still on the shelves for sale. If you buy an old box of color there’s a good chance that it will not turn out anything like you think it will.
In the same sense companies can change their formulas but it still looks like the same box. It may say “New Formula!”, and the consumer just assumes it’s going to be an improvement in their favor. It could be “improved” by changing hues or levels of developer, which means your hair isn’t going to turn out the same as it did last time. I’ve often heard, “I don’t know what happened, it’s the same box I always get.”. You might think that you’re buying the same haircolor but you’re not.
Aside from all of the obvious I think it’s clear that the main problem with botched haircolor is the word “box”. Hopefully many of you will be wiping that word from your vocabulary and switching over to the wonderful world of professional color! If you can’t or you’re simply happy with your box color…go over this checklist for before you color at home :).
*This content is copyrighted by Erika E. Brown and Confessions of a Cosmetologist. Please contact me if you would like information on how to properly link to this article. I DO NOT, under ANY circumstances authorize the copying of this content for any purpose.
Sources: The ABCH Study Portfolio
About Erika Brown
I'm a Master Colorist at in Williamsburg, VA. My career is my passion and I hope to share some advice and tips on keeping your hair and skin looking amazing!
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