Blonde hair color formulas can be so much fun to play with! Often, a hair colorist will forget to explore the possibilities because just using lightener is easier.
Not only that, but clients don’t ask for dimensional blonde hair color….they just ask for blonde and sometimes they suggest a hue. So, we lighten and tone just like every other time.
I almost always use 2-3 different formulas for my blondes.
My clients aren’t always on board when I explain what I’m going to do, but they trust me and they love the results!
Telling a blonde that you’re going to add blonde low-lights is tough. They instantly think “darker” because they don’t understand, so be cautious with how you present your ideas during the consultation.
The color combination in the photo above is one of my favorite looks on my sister. She always wants blonde, but I like to mix it up slightly so she doesn’t get bored with her hair. This was the first time she asked me for a shorter haircut, and the long angled bob looks great on her!
I’ve had a lot of requests for the formulas that I used to create this look. Keep in mind that these exact formulas will not turn out the same on everyone. You may need to adjust them depending on your clients natural level, underlying pigment, and previously colored hair.
My sister already had highlights from 3-4 months prior, and I’ve always used demi-permanent hair color for her low-lights. This makes it so much easier when your client wants to change their hair color. I only re-touch her regrowth when I highlight her hair to prevent damage. Don’t forget to “feather” the lightener slightly into the demarcation line when you’re highlighting the hair!
*For reference I’ll give you the details of what my sisters hair looked like before we got started. Use this information as a base point to go by when you’re formulating for your client. Her hair is a natural level 8 and her previously lightened/colored hair was of varying levels from 7-10.
- 3 color bowls
- 3 color brushes
- foiling comb
- scale or beaker
- color key
- hair color, lightening powder, and developer
- KENRA Demi-Permanent 9B & 10N(equal parts) w/ 9 volume developer, 1:2- SLICE the hair for this color formula and place to back-to-back with a SLICE of lightener.
- KENRA Demi-Permanent 8N w/ 9 volume developer, 1:2- WEAVE the hair for this color formula and place it back-to-back with the SLICE of lightened hair.
- Wella Blondor Lightening Powder w/ 20 volume developer(developer strength will vary depending on level of hair)- SLICE/WEAVE for this formula and place the woven section behind the 9B & 10N formula.
- WEAVE- Lightener
- SLICE- 9B & 10 N
- SLICE- Lightener
- WEAVE- 8N
This pattern can be used all-over, but it’s most important for placement on top. I suggest weaving lightly with lightener and the 8N around the hairline, then a heavy weave with lightener (going towards the ear). Place some heavy slices of 8n in the area above and behind the ears and the back of the head. Of course, you’ll include some slices with lightener and the 9B & 10N formula in-between.
Don’t forget to adjust the pattern as needed to keep the look more natural.
To create a natural look with highlights you should….
place a few extra foils of lightener around the face and a few extra of the 8N formula at the crown.
*Remember…some clients will need to be toned after rinsing out the high and low-lights. This can be done in the shampoo bowl to save time. Toning is most common with clients who are a level 7 or darker, and clients who had previously colored hair.
*If you prefer a different color line and need help with formulating click here!
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