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Bleach and Heat
This post was originally intended for professionals, and has been viewable only to subscribers that were verified as licensed cosmetologists or cosmetology students since May 2013.
I decided to unlock this content because our clients can benefit from this information too!
Bleach and heat…the never-ending controversy among stylists nationwide. We all have a different opinion and sometimes manufacturer directions aren’t even taken into consideration when choosing what path to take during a chemical service.
Should I pop Ms. Highlights under the dryer because I’m slammed and just don’t have the time to wait? Absolutely not!
Using heat can mean going from hair that’s manageable to no hair at all! It’s a hairy life or death situation when it comes to the question of bleach and heat…and yes, it is nearly that serious. Do I protect the integrity of the hair or blast it with heat and leave it damaged and lifeless for the sake of staying on schedule?
Whether you’re a stylist or a student you should always be asking yourself those questions when deciding if heat is an option. Don’t let lack of time or another stylists’ opinion skew your thought process. Just because everyone’s doing it doesn’t mean it’s okay!
If you’re a student it’s important to learn why using heat with bleach is a big deal. I’d rather learn from someone who’s done it than from several mistakes that could have been avoided. In school the main focuses are technique and formulating for the clients needs. I was slow at foiling so my learning leader would say- “Okay hun, get her under the dryer so we can speed this up and leave on time.”. They were more concerned with me getting it done, and placement was the key where heat was portrayed as no biggie. Come to think of it…I didn’t even know why I shouldn’t do it…I just did.
I’m willing to bet that those of you who regularly use heat don’t even think about it. For you, it’s just part of the routine and it says one thing about you as a stylist- You’re not concerned about what can happen to your clients hair…until something happens. Even when it does….when you go to rinse and your foil packets are just coming off….you’re saying “oh sh*t” for yourself, not the client. You’re worried because you screwed up and now you have some explaining to do…but not because you care about what she’s going to look like at work tomorrow. It’s time for all stylists to start making decisions because you care about your client, and stop over-processing their hair because you’ve become complacent and know a healthy trim will camouflage your mistakes!
I used to be guilty of using heat when I may not have needed to. I thought nothing of it and neither did anyone else I worked with. There were even some stylists that used heat on each client…every time! I’ve personally seen someone go to rinse, grab a foil, and it just came off(with the hair). She looked at me and she had “oh sh*t” written all over her face. To make it more clear….she barely touched the foil packet and it broke off at the root. That means all the hair in most of the packets broke off, or will at some point. I hope I never see that again, and for those of you that haven’t I hope you never do!
I get looks sometimes…from stylists that just put their client under the dryer and here I am saying, “No, I’m not going to use heat on you because it will damage your hair!”. Who cares if a fellow stylist gets caught using a potentially damaging shortcut…you should always make decisions that you feel are best for your client. In this case opinions can always be argued, but it is up to the other stylist to explain why their way is right for their own clients’ situation. Don’t ever worry about what anyone else is doing…we have all been taught different methods with different products for various reasons. Remember, if you’re doing the right thing for your client and being sensitive to his/her needs/wants…no explanation needed :).
The Pros of using heat with bleach:
- Faster lifting/processing time
- Breaking past the “stubborn” stage without reapplying
The Cons of using heat with bleach:
- Results in unnecessary damage to the hair
- Causing the hair to simply break off
- Risk of provoking chemical burns on the scalp
- Risk of heating the wrong chemicals
A few things to consider:
- Manufacturer instructions….don’t take their word for it.
- Dryers emit uneven bursts of heat.
Questions to ask yourself:
- What was the damage level of the hair when your client arrived at the salon?
- How will the chemicals I’m using affect damage and porosity levels without heat?
- Do I feel that it will be risky to use heat given the situation?
- Am I choosing to use heat because I don’t have enough time to wait?
- How will using heat affect the other chemicals I’m using(if any)?
- Am I choosing to use heat just because the directions say it’s okay?
Alternatives to using heat:
1) Use different formulas throughout the application.
I always consider how long the product will be processing on each area of the head. If you’re doing a full or partial foil this is important. For example, I may use 10 volume where I start and switch to 20 volume halfway through(or 10 on bottom, 20 on top). This eliminates the need to “speed up” the last section of foils you did. One of my biggest pet peeves is seeing white and gold highlights because of poor planning! Why do some stylists think this is okay?
2)Use volumes of developer that fit your skills and experience.
If you are uneasy about your speed and foiling abilities I would suggest using the lowest volumes possible for the level of hair you are working with. Don’t use 20 or 30 volume all over on a full foil…..that’s what gets a lot of people using the dryer…..you have to catch up the last section that was applied. Even if you “catch it up”, that last section will still be a different color than the first!
I challenge everyone, students and stylists, to stop and think before each time you want to use heat. Considering the effects and other options first will guarantee happier clients with healthier hair! Always ask yourself- if my hair was in the condition of my clients would I do this to my own hair? If you wouldn’t….you need to find another solution, or live with a guilty conscience!
Professional Hairstylist | American Board Certified Haircolorist | Makeup Artist | Beauty Blogger
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